Videre

There are moments in my food history that hang like snowflakes, timeless in the air. Moments I remember clearly – where I was, who I was with, sounds and smells in the room when the epiphany of taste occurred: the perfectly cooked pink flesh of a rainbow trout with almonds (for the young woman who’d never tasted fish before), the exquisite velvety full-palate flavour of a Penfolds Bin 60A (I would never drink another wine less excellent than this, I declared).

Even a waft of perfume can bring it all back…

Recently I had such a moment, gazing out across the golf course of RACV Royal Pines Resort from the 21st floor restaurant, Videre, the frenetic pace of Gold Coast living miles away.

It was most unexpected. A shock, almost. But there it was, the moment when I faced perfection; a dish I thought could not be any better than this.

The dish’s presentation was deceptively simple, a classic dessert, a ‘known’ dish which overtook me with a subtle burst of surprise. I stopped mid mouthful, noting the pique of interest that makes an exceptional dish brilliant. Memorable. Senses awakened to every nuance.

The moment hangs in memory: mid-spoonful of the seemingly innocent Crème brûlée, light, creamy, the richness balanced with the tart raspberry sorbet and velvety fresh raspberries on a short biscuity crust, capped off with a tinge of thyme.

Thyme! Who would have thought!

Chef Grant Parry with Karen Inglis-Turner of Gold Coast Food and Wine Tours

You know when you’re in the hands of a master.

Master chef he is. Head Chef Grant Parry trained in Manly Pacific’s Parkroyal before working for Merivale for two years at CBD (1-hat) and est, followed by Level 41 and the 3-hatted Quay with Peter Gilmore. His international experience includes two years at Claridge’s where he was Head Pastry Chef for Gordon Ramsay, Hilton Dubai, Hilton Northolme Seychelles and Qatar.

Humble to a fault despite his skill, his passion is obvious.

“Everything is on the plate for a reason,” he tells us. “Nothing is there by chance, no flourishes or foams for the sake of it. Everything I do is a simple message. It’s all about flavour, choosing each ingredient with care to make each dish the best it can be.”

It’s easy to see in his food: the amuse bouche of Cauliflower soup prepared simply with respect to the ingredients, a tiny addition of cep powder infusing sufficient umami to make the dish to sublime. Ravioli is made from discs of cabernet sauvignon marinated beetroot, sandwiching whipped Meredith Farm goat’s curd with chervil dressing and wood sorrel, pine nuts and nasturtium leaves adding richness and bite.

Grant tells us about how he balances each seasonal menu, creating as many different taste variations as possible – creamy, frozen, rich, earthy… Acidity is the new saltiness, he says, explaining the warm salad of Romaine with 63-degree egg topped with gold leaf. In Japanese style the still liquid egg is mixed through the chiffonade at the table, shattering the gold leaf through the dish.

Such intrigue is matched only by playfulness: a disc of Duck leg and liver topped by tiny duck croutons floating on a sea of herbs and cornichons.

There’s serious umami in the Beef fillet, served with celeriac cream, a mixture of mushrooms and port jus. Rich and satisfying, it’s a dish that appeals to everyone, he says, even the most conservative diner.

Unbelievably, Grant’s desserts turn it up a notch, showing off his prowess recognised as Head Pastry Chef at Gordon Ramsay’s Claridge’s:

Baked pineapple tart with crème fraiche sorbet, topped with a disk of pineapple and pashmak – one of my favourite dishes; Grant says he learned the technique from Gordon Ramsay;

Valrhona chocolate délice – pearl barley infused malt ice cream with honeycomb;

Iced banana parfait with coconut mousse, passionfruit and textures of chocolate.

And then comes the dish that causes the moment…

Thyme-infused crème brûlée with sable biscuit and raspberry sorbet, the short biscuity crust contrasting with the rich creamy brûlée, the slightly acidic intense sorbet and soft velvety fresh raspberries; oppositional flavours and textures which add up to perfection. Time stands still in a moment rare enough to hang in my memory.

….

Share the delight! On Wednesday and Thursday nights, for a limited time, the ‘Locals and Residents Special 3-course menu’ including a glass of selected wine is available for only $59 per person, with Crème brûlée on the menu. A la carte: 3 courses $71.50.

Valid through May 2017, subject to availability. Bookings Ph: 5597 8700

Royal Pines Resort, Ross Street, Benowa, Ph: 07 5597 8700

Open: Wed – Sat 6pm to late; High tea: Sat and Sun 11am, 12pm, 1pm

Note: Good Food Gold Coast dined as a guest of Videre.

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Benowa Dessert Dinner High Tea International Licensed Main course $25 to $40 Restaurants Set price Tourist attraction , , , , , , , , , , ,

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1 Review

  1. Karen Inglis-Turner, 1 month ago

    Great review Marj!
    Love this restaurant too…. can hardly wait to get back to try the locals 3 course meal!
    Cheers
    Karen

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